Injury on the Road To Pamplona

If you don't want to be completely grossed out, don't scroll down to see Janine's injury. She hurt herself pre-Camino but it was (and is) a concern. I'll put something more pleasant in the post first so if this gets re-posted to Facebook that the accompanying picture is not her knee catastrophe.

Mike in the Morning. Pre-Pamplona, Pre-Injury

Since this blog is all about me, I'm here to talk about my possible injury - and it's not the sciatica / ischial tendonopathy old-man injury stuff I've been dealing with for the last 18 months. I was hoping not running for a month might fix that particular problem. The Camino is a strange place and I often joke that after the first week everyone has what I call the Camino Limp - there is some small part of you that is out of whack and the rest of your body is adjusting for it. I spotted my first case of it today, a young woman slightly favoring one leg. A little further down the road, a Japanese young man that was stepping gingerly on one foot. I had been worried about a blister on my bottom right foot but had wisely changed out of my wet shoes for the last hour yesterday and put on my Tivas - disaster avoided. But then, as we were getting close to Pamplona today, I noticed the outside of my left shin was rather tight. As the afternoon progressed, it really felt like a weird case of shin splints - so now what the hell do we do? It's not too painful to walk but I don't want to damage it further. I'm icing as I write. We wanted to spend a little longer in Pamplona anyway so I think the plan will be to stay here in the morning and do a half day tomorrow, probably just a few hours of walking. If it gets worse, I may end up on a beach while Janine continues the walk.

As for Janine's injury, she massively wiped out while running a few weeks back - hit some uneven sidewalk hit all fours - her knee taking the worst of it - one of the nastiest scrapes I've ever seen. Why do I bring it up now? One reason is that it's been a constant concern - a pharmacist in Biarritz told her to go see a doctor (two weeks after the fact). She's been minding it well and it seems to be on the mend. But then WHY subject the reader to the horrific image that follows? Because Jesus too has such wounds. Twice now we've been in churches where Christ is bleeding from the knees. I'm used to the wounds on the side but I've never noticed the knees. Check out the pictures below and see if you can determine which is which.

First Real Day and Letting go

Our first day was really 1/3 mileage, albeit 700 meters of climbing. The second day was 2/3 long, just a village beyond where everyone else stopped. Today, was really our first full day, about 23 km of walking on mixed terrain in pouring rain (it's supposed to fall mainly in the plain!).
We did our soon-to-be typical stop for breakfast and cappuccinos after about an hour of walking. We ran into people from our first night off-and-on as the today progressed. Kathy, the teacher from Newport Beach, just arrived at the Albergue where Janine and I currently sit reading (and writing) while sipping an adult beverage of our choice. A little bit of laundry, socks and underwear, sits nearby drying on the line. I just finished reading the 10 page training manual given to us by our dog Jackomo's boot camp - they swear they can help with his leash aggression - the dog's stay may turn out to be the most expensive part of our vacation.

A Typically Ridiculously Adorable Spanish Village

Other than our endless walking, not much to report - the rain does lend itself much to sight-seeing or socializing on the road. We think as we near Pamplona tomorrow that both aspects may improve.

The vagrant life we've chosen for the next month requires a bit of letting go. For both Janine and I, it requires constant effort to allow the other to occasionally be in charge despite our own opinions. It requires not worrying about the things that were lost or left behind, so far - a walking stick, a new hat, sandwiches (twice), and my credential (which magically appeared later). These things which we think we need are often useful for our journey but so rarely critical. The walking stick may have been a burden. The Camino provided a new hat today. New meals were purchased. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I feel extremely grateful that the second cup of cappuccino is not going to break the bank. There are others on the road that are flying much closer to the ground in regards to their expenses.

I hope that letting go will also let us both think more about what's really important. What's important today and for the next 20 years? We have a lot of time to think while walking under Spanish skies.

Emilio Estavez died here but you really won't believe what else happened...

Stopping in Orisson was an excellent idea. It was the last refuge on the climb over the Pyrennees. Getting to it was a not insignificant climb of 700 meters over the course of 8 km. The sky was misting when we departed St. Jean at about 2 but generally it was good walking weather. We stopped briefly at Hontos, the only village (5 houses) of any size on the way to Roncevalles. As we sat on the empty patio outside the guesthouse, the skies opened up. We retreated under the terrace and in 10 minutes the storm had passed. Another 40 minutes of steep uphill later and we had arrived at the Refugio Orisson, a lone hostel on the side of the road. We met good fortune again here as the heavens opened up further, including hail, just as we were arriving - the pilgrim we passed an hour before arrived soaked to the bone some 10 minutes later.

Approximately 40 of us had decided that "half-way" was far enough for the day. As I would soon learn, the "normal first day" was just as brutal as advertised. We split it in half and it was still a bit much.
The evening's family style dinner in the Refugio was fun - good food, free wine, and tales of how we all landed on this trail. Some 10 countries were represented and strangely 4 Seattle-ites (followed closely by 3 from Santa Cruz) - only one east coaster in the bunch. Most impressive was the 84 year old Minnesotan grandmother hiking with her daughter and grand-daughter.

Mike finds WIFI

The next morning most of us were on the road before 8. The sky was bleak. The rain was not terrible but relentless and it was strangely cold for late June - due to both the 3000 foot elevation and a poncho shredding wind. We continued to climb for the 3 hours eventually reaching the high point on the trail. The only respite was a brief stop in a concrete mountain hut that allowed 10 of us at a time to get out of the wind and drop our packs for a few minutes. After reaching about 4500 feet, we had a ridiculous one hour ascent which challenged both our footing and our hips. On a fair day, with the ability to stop and sit in the sun once in a while, The typical day one route would have been difficult but do-able. The challenge of the weather would have made doing the whole thing both mentally and physically exhausting. I'm glad we chose to attack the hill in the manner that we did.

Janine in the rain

Because we started early (and we were a bit wet and cold), we decided to by-pass the 200 bed hostel and go to the next town and rent a single room. Tomorrow our more regular schedule will begin - up early, walk for an hour, stop for coffee and pastry, continue walking most of the morning, eat on the trail, and arrive in our destination early afternoon.

Click Bait Resolution

Emilio Estavez, in the movie "The Way", he died on the trail the first day. We could see how that could happen. We saw several grave markers. Another 10 degrees colder and I could see getting hypothermia. But we think everyone made it today.

Day 1 - Gratefulness and Practical Matters of getting there

Blog 2 - trains, planes, and buses
A lot of natural resources expended to get to the start of our trip. We began about 40 hours ago and have since Taxied to the airport, flown to Paris, taken two flights inside France to Barritz, taken two buses, and now await the last two trains to arrive at St Jean Pied du Port - the traditional start of the the Camino de Santiago. The irony of all of this modern travel to walk a 1000 year old 500 mile pilgrimage is not lost on me. We could have certainly strapped on our packs and simply hiked back to California.
We are very privileged that we have the time and resources to take what most people would consider a once-in-a-lifetime type of trip. As I sit here drinking my second cappuccino in the cafe across from the train station, I realize that, while relatively inexpensive, even the ability to enjoy a second cup of coffee in a sit-down establishment without fretting about our budget is a 1%er activity.
I hope I can consider to feel grateful for my good fortune while thinking about ways in which I can share my wealth with others.

cappuccinos and Bluetooth keyboard

On the less philosophical side, in case anyone who is reading this actually wants some advice about the Camino, here's what I've learned. We debated a lot about how to get to St. Jean. Our first choice was where to fly into. Paris had relatively cheap and direct flights from Seattle - given our choice to fly to Biarritz, several other European airports may have worked just as well. One option from Paris would have also been train - they ran regularly but ultimately took about 6 hours - seems like given the time we were arriving, getting to St. Jean that day was questionable - we would probably end up in Bayonne or Biarritz anyway, so we decided to fly - a choice that was almost costly as we had a connecting flight through Lyon France that we almost missed. In hindsight, I might have opted for the train. In addition, we chose to stay in an Air BNB in Biarritz. Biarritz is a cute sea-side town that would have been nicer on a sunny, less wind-stormy day. It would have been easier (once again in hindsight ) to catch a bus from the Biarritz airport to Bayonne OR to have gotten organized transport to St. Jean (something I read in my guidebook this morning). All-in-all, nothing wrong with our plans but I might do it a bit differently if I had to start from France again (including walking from Notre Dame!).

made it to start!

My post didn't go out at breakfast as my WIFI dropped and we were about to miss our train. I now sit on my last section mass transit (I hope). The short mountain train from Bayonne to St. Jean is winding through the quaint Basque countryside, filled with streams, cottages, and sheep. Hopefully the weather won't keep us from our 8k hike up the Pyrennees (sp?) and our first Camino accommodation - where I hope to find more WIFI and make this post.

You won't believe this click bait...

As I sit in the air France Business lounge (Thank you Janine), I contemplate potential blog posts for the coming 40 days. I thought it would be fun and ironic to make each of my entries extreme click bait. I plan to post a link every few days to Facebook and thought this might be hilarious. Of course, I could be wrong.

The following are all potential headlines for future posts. Please suggest others on the blog or in comments on Facebook.

Man creates way to walk across Europe for free.

5 things you should never say to your wife.

Seeing the Running of the Bulls - and you won't believe what the Bulls do.

When you find out what Janine did at Midnight your jaw will drop.

The top ten things not to pack on vacation.

This is not a joke. What just happened is horrifying.

Mike didn't know what he had eaten - until the bill came.

Couple aged 112 provide their age defying secrets

By air drying their clothes, they created a genius life hack.

When you read these 9 shocking facts about Spain, you'll never want to go.

He found this bag by the side of the road, but when he opened it, I'm speechless

8 hiking outfits that are pure genius

Think this is a normal church? just wait till you see what's inside...

All she did was sit her pack down. What happened next blew my mind.

Question? Disbelief. Ellipses...

Janine and Mike went exploring a cemetery. What they found was chilling.

Mike wasn't always a teacher. His story makes me like him even more.

This intense photo will shake even the most skeptics non-believer

These travelers wrote a note in the guestbook that could shock (and disgust) almost anyone.

Who would have thought a man talking about his foot care could be so fascinating?

When this backpacker sat down, this dog has a reaction you need to see for yourself.

You never knew these 7 facts about walking.

13 years ago they got married, but this anniversary card still makes him cry.

Here's what happen when a stupid American tries to jump across a raging river.

Numbered list about anything. Make sure you read the last one!

Trying Bloggo App from My Phone

Catching bus back up to Ballard. Had to run home to sign house papers. Janine picks me up at 3 to go drop off dog at Boot camp.

Adiós Ballard. Hola España!

I feel super fortunate to have spent two years at Ballard High School - a place of high standards, great students, and helpful professional colleagues.  I'm sorry to be going but my life has so rarely been about staying in one place for very long - Hercules being the one exception.

I don't have the time or inclination to be super reflective right now.  I think the 500 mile walk across Spain should provide sufficient time for such introspection.  Some of it, I'll likely write about here.

A few things I'll remember:

My room at Ballard - can see Mt. Rainer on a clear day.

My Colleagues and their helpfulness in planning and mental support.  My "Letting Go" and doing it someone else's way was a mantra I tried to keep for two years.  For the most part, it always went well, I usually learned something, and it almost always saved me time.  The Thursday afternoon planning sessions with the "Alge-bros" was possibly the best professional development I've ever had.

Students saying "Thank You" at the end of each class.  Who trained these kids?  I was brought up as a respectful southerner but that's one piece of hospitality that I had never heard of.

My Biotech students: Especially those I've had for two years.  We've had some ups and downs but generally they've been everything I would want in students.  I've promised to come back for their graduations in 2018 and 2019. 

My short stint with the basketball program.  It was great to coach again. I'm hoping I don't take another 15 year hiatus.

All the videos I made.  I received a lot of feedback that they were very helpful.  I need to make sure I keep up with all of them.