Muxia was a lovely small town on a peninsula with boats moored on the east side and beautiful sunsets on the west. A small chapel dominated it's craggy end point. This may have been the sight where St. James had a vision of the Virgin Mary. We managed to find a small restaurant and had some delicious seafood including razor clams which were new to both of us. Otherwise, the town seemed pretty dead for a Saturday night (Appropriate for the Death Coast - lots of shipwrecks here). We watched the sun set at 9:53 and promptly went back to our room for bed.
We broke our normal routine this morning and ate breakfast at our starting point instead of walking for an hour or so first. This was critical as there were no services and just a few very small villages between Muxia and our stopping point of Lires. Despite "going backwards" from most on the trail, we only met about 40 hikers today - most of whom are problem pilgrims, some who likely hiked all the way (4 days) from Santiago. But our numbers are dwindling.
Lires is on a river about a kilometer inland from the sea and has one bar, two restaurants, and about 6 places to stay. It will be interesting to see how many turn out for dinner tonight - supposedly the bar/restaurant at the top of the hill is where most people go to watch the sun set over the ocean.
It was a nice day a leisurely pace, a fair amount of walking, a lot of reading, and hand-washed laundry. The latter reminded me that one of my sock liners may never be worn again this trip - tomorrow is our last true day of the Camino - unless something changes.